I saw this comment on the rototill question, but I don't quite understand it. What are cover crops? Is this only used in the south? Or on the coast?

Frost generally takes care of the end of the plants, I let them dry out over winter, and burn em in the spring. But I am curious about these cover crops.

After 1st frost pull the dead plants and add them to the compost pile. They are a valuable resource for next years garden.

Many cover crops will grow after the first frost.

Cover crops:

http://rodaleinstitute.org/20080815/nf1

More reading!

http://www.auri.org/proproj/allelopa.html

Cover crops are used to fill in the growing spaces between crops. They help rebuild the soil. Depending on when you want to grow the cover crop and the time you have, there are many choices.

For example I use buckwheat cover crops to fill in gaps between spring and fall crops. Buckwheat can reach maturity in 30 days; it's a fast grower and easy to kill. It seems to work best in summer. I use oats in spring or fall after crop plants have been removed. The oats do winter kill in my zone, which is desired in my case.

All cover crops need a delay between when you cut down the cover crop and when you plant. If you plants too soon, the seeds won't germinate.

One of the dangers of cover crops that survive the winter is if you have a wet spring. It may delay when you can cut down cover crop further delaying your spring planting.

I guess you could say there is a trade off between cover crops that survive your winter and ones that don't. If they survive then you get better results because they have more time to grow. If the spring is wet it can make it harder to get started in those garden beds. If the crop doesn't survive the winter there is less risk in spring but the benefits are not the same.

I'll plant winter rye, in early October, in my garden beds most every year. In my area I try to get the cover crop up about 2 - 3" to winter over before the hard frost & snow cover sets in. With the rye you can't let it get too tall or else it will be a real "bear" to incorporate back into the soil. If the spring weather is too wet, rye can grow very fast and you will have to cut it down before tilling. I like to have the stuff turned in by May 1st, or when it gets about a foot tall, since I don't plant until Memorial Day or shortly thereafter.

I've read that a single rye plant produces a whole bunch of root hairs that go deep into the soil sub-structure that allows water & air to get down through the hard pan when the roots decompose and also brings trace nutrients up to the surface while growing. I've seen the difference in my garden in the years I haven't grown a cover crop as opposed to when I have.

This fall I'm planning to expand my garden (again) to grow some "regular" vegetables (currently I'm only growing hot peppers) and will certainly plant winter rye in the new bed this fall to help get things going. The new bed will be about 6' X 50' (or longer) and I haven't decided whether or not to make it a raised bed. (We've got lots of little critters who like to munch on gardens) I may end up tilling the new soil & planting the rye; and in the spring making it a raised bed. The bad thing is I'll have to haul in some top-soil to fill the bed.

I figure if it does nothing else except add loads of organic matter it's worth the extra effort.

Bob

Natural Bob has a great response. I just want to add a little bit more. Here in westeren PA the ground while freeze hard in the winter. The cover crop I plant is also winter rye, it will grow to about 3 or 4 inches before the first heavy snow fall. It suppose to keep the ground from from freezing completely so the earth worm can keep doing their thing, and it is then a green manure when turned in the spring.

Oh one more thing Natural Bob. GO JOEPA

I'm super interested in cover crops and appreciate the information. Nothing ever seems to be the perfect answer and adds so much work, so I am investigating what will work for me.
The field I rent has had winter rye for some years and it is definitely better soil than it would be otherwise (it is sandy here and the soil is pretty loamy in the field).
I am looking into sowing a vetch this fall since I read that a light tilling of it in spring will be enough so it doesn't compete with corn but does drown out weeds and add nitrogen. For the veggie area I suppose I will plow under the vetch better.
Then I am hoping to do as OGM suggested and plant an annual grass in 2010's area. That is if I can continue to rent there. But I really need to lessen my work not increase it and I don't have a tractor of my own and have to rely on others so I am worried my 'plan' might not be right.

Spend some time reading the "NO Till Revolution" from the Rodale Institue:

http://www.rodaleinstitute.org/no-till_revolution

Excellent discussion about cover crops.

Little Minnie how big a field do you rent?

A cover crop is something you plant so your soil is not left exposed to the ravages of the wind, rain, or sun, a protective cover that you willnot harvest but will leave in place. It is about the same as a green manure crop although that, the green manure crop, could be leguminous plants that would add more nutrients to the soil. You should always take steps to protect your soil with either a cover/green manure crop or a mulch. Soil should never be left exposed to the elements.

quote:

Originally posted by Snotzalot:
Little Minnie how big a field do you rent?

It is 5000 square feet this year, but I can manuever it around and take as much as I want. The guy who grew pumpkins in the rest decided they don't grow well there and it leaves about a half acre for me to choose from. So I want to cover crop just to the right of it and then cover crop my area from this year next summer. (that is if they agree to rent to me again)
Being in MN and being I like to extend the season a lot, means cover crops are difficult for me.