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Posted
My pea plant, about 7 inches tall, keeps leaning over. I put in skewer in the dirt to stake it. I noted at the soil lever the stalk is kind of withered and brownish color. This is just at the soil level, the rest of the plant looks good. What is wrong with it?
 
Posts: 835 | Location: NE US | Registered: February 11, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Is the plant in a container or planted outside?

I'm not sure what damping off looks like, but I know that it is a fungus attacking the plant at the soil level.

Plants tend to fall over when they don't have enough water in the stem to maintain a rigid stem. If the top of your plant isn't getting enough water from the roots, then the plant may fall over.

Also did your pea plant send out any feelers to attach to the stake? Maybe the vine was just getting too tall to support itself without the stake.
 
Posts: 59 | Location: South Dakota (zone 4) | Registered: April 06, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Two things here - don't know what is causing the whithered stem, could be a problem with soil nutrients or fungus (peas are prone to fungal infections). But I direct sow all of my peas as they are cold tolerant and short season. And they will flop around until they get tall enough to attach to something. I usually will either use a short trellis with first rungs about 5 inches off the ground, or a string trellis built on the fence, to give them low support, and will twine the plants around the string or trellis until they start to grow runners, very gently. This keeps them from being in contact with soil born fungi.

They don't like to be too lonely, inspirt of package directions, so I do plant them intensively.

Maggie

I love English peas!!
 
Posts: 977 | Location: Indian Hills, CO - zone 4 | Registered: May 14, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I use "pea brush". No staking required.
 
Posts: 253 | Location: West Central Ohio Zone 5B | Registered: October 26, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by MaggieZ:
Two things here - don't know what is causing the whithered stem, could be a problem with soil nutrients or fungus (peas are prone to fungal infections). But I direct sow all of my peas as they are cold tolerant and short season. And they will flop around until they get tall enough to attach to something. I usually will either use a short trellis with first rungs about 5 inches off the ground, or a string trellis built on the fence, to give them low support, and will twine the plants around the string or trellis until they start to grow runners, very gently. This keeps them from being in contact with soil born fungi.

They don't like to be too lonely, inspirt of package directions, so I do plant them intensively.

Maggie

I love English peas!!



I planted them in a mix of Walmart's Hyponex, pearlite and sand. For the first few weeks they had no support and flopped around. Maybe that made the stem weak at the soil line?
 
Posts: 835 | Location: NE US | Registered: February 11, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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What is a "pea brush?"
 
Posts: 226 | Location: central Mass./zone 5 | Registered: March 20, 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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One of our little local railroads is nicknamed the Peavine because of the crop it used to serve.

A pea brush or pea stick is a branch trimmed from a brushy shrub with lots of branching twigs.

About the time my peas need to be trellised, I will thin out the privet hedge bordering my driveway. I will poke the thinnings in the dirt between the pea plants then lead them to the pea stick. The pea vines will happily climb the sticks in lieu of strings or netting or other trellises.

In the fall, I'll rip up the vines, pea sticks and all and toss them out on the lawn. I'll use the mower to chop them and collect them for the compost pile, where they will rot for the next three years.

Allen as to your problem, if at the place where the baby vines exit the dirt, the stalk looks like a thin little thread, then your seedlings have damped off. It's caused by a fungus, but exacerbated by over watering and inadequate air moving past your seedlings. This is why many greenhouses have oscillating fans going all the time.

A bit of air movement strengthens the seedlings at the soil level.

Peas usually are started outside in their final location. Here the traditional starting day is Easter, although Easter came so early this year that planting that soon would not have gone over too well.

I'll plant 8 feet of Alaska and of Little Marvel tomorrow, and will repeat sowings of 8 foot rows weekly until July or so. The last plantings will germinate in the cool shade of carrots that will be harvested and out of the way by the time the peas are climbing trellises under the hoops. They will mature under cover, and will provide the last 5 or 10 pounds that we will hopefully freeze in late September.


My new answering machine message:
Hello and thank you for calling. We have been members of the NRA since we were old enough to take communion. As a Christian family, we have no interest in your robotic messages of hatred, bigotry and fear. We choose to vote for love, hope, and change, and we hope you will join us. Have a great day!.
 
Posts: 771 | Registered: September 16, 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yes, just plant peas outside where they will grow. If you want lots of peas, plant five fifteen foot rows ten inches apart. When they are two inches tall, run your hoe between the rows to get the weeds. Just let them grow, no need to stake them. Good varieties are Wando, Little Marvel, Laxton's Progress, Lincoln and Victory Freezer.



Plant a little seed...........
 
Posts: 820 | Location: N. Utah Zone 4/5 Elev. 5000' | Registered: April 02, 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by James_1:
Yes, just plant peas outside where they will grow. If you want lots of peas, plant five fifteen foot rows ten inches apart. When they are two inches tall, run your hoe between the rows to get the weeds. Just let them grow, no need to stake them. Good varieties are Wando, Little Marvel, Laxton's Progress, Lincoln and Victory Freezer.


Wont they get all tangled up? Would it matter?
 
Posts: 835 | Location: NE US | Registered: February 11, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by ctdahle:
One of our little local railroads is nicknamed the Peavine because of the crop it used to serve.

A pea brush or pea stick is a branch trimmed from a brushy shrub with lots of branching twigs.

About the time my peas need to be trellised, I will thin out the privet hedge bordering my driveway. I will poke the thinnings in the dirt between the pea plants then lead them to the pea stick. The pea vines will happily climb the sticks in lieu of strings or netting or other trellises.

In the fall, I'll rip up the vines, pea sticks and all and toss them out on the lawn. I'll use the mower to chop them and collect them for the compost pile, where they will rot for the next three years.

Allen as to your problem, if at the place where the baby vines exit the dirt, the stalk looks like a thin little thread, then your seedlings have damped off. It's caused by a fungus, but exacerbated by over watering and inadequate air moving past your seedlings. This is why many greenhouses have oscillating fans going all the time.

A bit of air movement strengthens the seedlings at the soil level.

Peas usually are started outside in their final location. Here the traditional starting day is Easter, although Easter came so early this year that planting that soon would not have gone over too well.

I'll plant 8 feet of Alaska and of Little Marvel tomorrow, and will repeat sowings of 8 foot rows weekly until July or so. The last plantings will germinate in the cool shade of carrots that will be harvested and out of the way by the time the peas are climbing trellises under the hoops. They will mature under cover, and will provide the last 5 or 10 pounds that we will hopefully freeze in late September.



Thanks for the detailed reply. Will give it another try in the ground
 
Posts: 835 | Location: NE US | Registered: February 11, 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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