Hi. I need advice!
I already have good soil which I added compost to early this spring. But now I have so many pests - cut worms, squash bugs, and white bugs in the ground (nematodes?) and so many others. 2 weeks ago I laid 4-8 inches of straw a-la Ruth Stout (most crops are done for the year). I plan on laying 2 inches leaves in the fall on top.

I was wondering if anyone knew if by mulching heavily and not planitng fall squash or other crops, will this prevent the squash bugs and cut worms from over wintering in my garden, or do I need to spray anyway? If I spray (something organic) would it be better to do this fall or next spring? - I still have this seasons my squash plants producing but I am thinking about pulling them because they are beginning to look really sad. I thought if I pulled them now, maybe the squash bugs wouldn't have any food and would die off before they buried themselves in the ground (that's what they do, right?).
I had planned on leaving the corn (which never really developed) and stalks under some hay to mulch, but will the cut worms survive to invade next year if I do?

Thanks for anyhelp. I'm expecting a child in late Oct so I'm trying to minimize my work!

What would you spray and what would you spray for?

You said you had good soil and then list pests which indicate that your plants have a dietary problem indicating the soil is not all that good. The only way to know whether your soil is good is with the soil tests, a nutrient and pH base line test done by a good laboratory and these simple tests you can do;
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fillting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it it for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Your primary concern is the OM level and yours may be pretty good.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like. Pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

Once you really know your soil you can take the steps necessary to make your soil better which will then let your plants grow strong and healthy and the insects then will not be a problem.

Good soil is important, but the kinds of bugs you are talking about will always be there as long as you plant the kinds of plants they can eat. They've been surviving for millennia, so at best you can clean up your garden debris, and compost it well, improve your soil over the winter, but be prepared nonetheless for the regular group to show up in the spring.

When you start planting in the spring you'll need to use little collars to stop the cut worms, and there are garlic and chili pepper sprays to deter the bugs. Crop rotation helps, meaning don't plant them within 10 feet of where you planted them the year before. Encourage bug eating birds by planting flowering trees on the outskirts of your garden. Make sure you water regularly so the plants don't get stressed and then become vulnerable to big attacks.

If you plant nitrogen fixing trees they will improve the soil and drop dead leaves you can use for mulching and composting. Some good ones are eleagnus bushes, wisteria, redbud, acacia and hardenbergia vines. Some of these need winter protection.

Just wanted to thank you for your reply. I didn't mention that I have a groundhog problem - which is the cause of the sad plants. (I think I have a plan to lick them!) But I've had my Ph done and looked at the rest of your advice. Thanks again!

Thanks sweet pea. I can use a few of these tips - and guess I'll pull my plants and make sure they are well mulched!
Happy Fall gardening