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It probably depends on what pests attack your neighbors'trees. I have grown all of the above, and found the plum only got aphids, and set huge amounts of fruit year after year (santa rosa plum). The other fruits all got assorted diseases and pests every year. (I live in Calif. where agriculture and pests go hand in hand. Our winters are so mild that many diseases and pests don't die out in the winter. All my fruit trees gave me loads of fruit even with the pests.
I would make sure you have the right kind of soil first. I was so excited when we bought our house and I could finally plant some apple trees. Then my husband saw all the cedar trees growing around it and said "Uh-uh, no apple trees for you!" Turns out we have very acidic soil, also none of my neighbors have apple trees (doesn't mean they tried it.) My parent-in-laws have similar soil and they tried in vain for years to grow an apple tree. Do I have any hope for ever growing apples with proper ammendments or should I stick to blueberries?
The following is a list of diseases and pests that can attack your cherry trees. On the whole tree:Bacterial Canker. On the leaves:Bacterial Canker,leaf spot, powdery mildew, silver leaf,Ringspot virus. On the fruit: Brown Rot. The pests include Cherry Maggot, peach tree borer,aphids, pear slugs. And my worst pest is the ROBIN, I have to cover my cherry trees every year with nets, if i want to enjoy any of the fruit. But I do leave a few for them.I love the Robins.:x
Well, almost all. I had horrible peach leaf curl on my peach, even with applications of bordeaux spray a couple times in the winter. Every single spring the peach leaves would look horrible, then all the curled ones would fall off, but the new growth (this all happened within the rapid spring growing period ) would be 90% curl free! I finally gave up on spraying anything except dormant oil, as the peach curl just refused to go away. I did pick off the curl affect fruit. Even so, that 7 year old tree must have given me a couple hundred pounds of delicious elberta peaches! (each season!) Now my 2 apple trees set a lot of fruit, but the super hot summers ( I think) would cause the fruit on the golden delicious to fall about 3 weeks before it got sweet enough to pick. I made lots of pies from those tangy apples. (The fruit looked perfect, no scabs, no worms, nice smooth, barely yellow , but they fell every single summer too soon!) Any ideas what caused that? The red delicious set huge fruits (the largest was grapefruit sized), but some kind of worms always got to those just as they turned sweet, and I HATED the idea of spraying anything at harvest time. So I had to share those magnificently sweet, huge apples with the worms. (Sometimes I was lucky and got a WHOLE apple just for me, and didn't have to share with a worm.
david. but there is also a down side to dwarf trees,as their life span isn't as long as a standard tree. Also David, did you know that if you plant a dwarf tree above the graft, that it will turn back into a standard tree?
that's because the standard is just grafted on to dwarfing stock. it'll root if it can & bypass the stock. i'm torn between true dwarf & semi-dwarf. semi's have a 15 ft span; i fugure i can plant 6 in the space i have. anyone have an opinion as to what yeilds the largest net harvest? can plant more dwarves, but semi's give more per tree. with true's could plant more varities, as long as they w/ polinate ea other. i plan to have naval oranges, plums & i'm not sure what else. i already have several lemons & a granny smith apple. what's a really good sweet pear? the pears i've bought in the stores lately have nearly turned me off to pears at all. what's a really good sweet plum? i'd planned on planting santa rosa (as polinator) & imperial. thoughts? suggestions?
Evil succeeds when good people do nothing. No trees were killed or animals harmed in the sending of this message; however a great many electrons were horribly inconvenienced. Farm's blog: http://allnaturalsimplelife.blogspot.com/
Posts: 608 | Location: SoCal Zone 11. MO Zone 6 | Registered: February 11, 2002
Peach leaf curl is soil borne, and the early spring rains spread it.......simple solution, cover the tree to keep it dry until the growth is established. Also try Frost peach as it is not as prone to leaf curl.
As for the apples, Here its called June drop and is typical of apples, one cause is not enough water on the trees. As for the worms...on red and not golden? If thats the case, early in the year place red plastic balls coated with tanglefoot in the trees.
Hi Allmixed up, I just bought some fruit trees via mail order and learned some interesting tidbits about keeping size small in a regular sized tree...plant more than one tree in the same hole, like 2 or 3, just make sure they have the same rootstock. Another idea is to plant trees only 6-8 feet apart (again, try to have the same rootstock adjacent). The trees will have more competition in the same root space thus resulting in smaller trees overall. I haven't tried this (I bought some of those 4 in 1 trees for my small yard). Where I used to live I planted full sized trees, but pruned them to a height I could reach on a step stool. This idea I learned from a weekend gardening class (the instructor said to prune the tree to the height you want to harvest fruit. Since I dislike standing on high ladders, thought I'd try it, and the trees produced plenty of fruit).
Well their life span will still out last most gardeners and you will not end up with those awful umbrella shaped trees from poor pruning. And DUH about the graft.
I don't know what zone you are in, but if the Bartlett Pear is suitable for your area, it is a very good and sweet pear, good for eating and canning. At my Florida home I have a Naval Orange tree and the guy at the Nursery told me that you also have to have a Temple orange tree for polination. Which I do have, and my Naval does bear fruit. Don't know how true this is. I have 2 good sweet plum trees at my Michigan home but sorry I don't know what they are, I got the trees from my sister.