No problem here. I am far from discouraged. I already knew about heating mats and fans but I am only starting a couple of dozen plants so I will probably skip the mat and may use the fan later to strengthen the plants.

I am certainly not scared away by the lengths that some people go to for the absolutely best plants. Some people make a real science of gardening and I like that.

Anyway, I appreciate all of the input.

Browny, everyone who has posted in this thread knows your're not a newby to gardening or to this forum. In your original post you were just asking others to take a look at your list to make sure you weren't forgetting something. I know you are well aware of all the different ways people do things on here. Everything from heatmats and fans to soaking seed in peroxide and pre germinating and on and on. And your right about some making a science of this, and then some use a very simple approach. Reminds me, you know a lot of people on here have suggested putting your cell packs on top of the fridge for a little extra heat.Just a thought, but still not necessary.
You did ask about seedless watermelon awhile back and I don't think anyone posted to your question. I was busy and didn't get a chance either so here goes. I plant a lot of melons and do plant some seedless.I've probably planted 6 different varities the past few years. Gurney's Delight or Trillion are a couple of good varities for bigger melons(15lbs). Big Tasty or Ruby for the smaller icebox melon(6-8lbs).You do have to start these indoors and use supplemental heat. There is a varity from Harris(I'll have to look up the name) that I direct seeded that came up and done well, but it is the only one I've ever been able to direct seed with any luck. When you start them indoors they have to go out no later than second true leaves. Any farther along than that and you just as well throw'em out and start over again, you just won't have any yeild. You also have to plant a seeded varity for pollination. Most packets contain a pollinator seed but I plant enough seeded varities I don't use their included pollinator seed. One last thing. Although I have had seedless melons that had not a seed one, most will have some small white seeds. And those are edible. Still want to try seedless melons?LOL I'll find the name of that Harris varity that I direct seed, you might want to try it.

One of the benefits of growing your own seedlings is the fact that it really satisfies the "itch" to garden on long, cold winter days. You really have something you have to do most days, even if it's just a little watering or turning lights on or off.

Thanks kel. I have definitely decided to try seedless watermelon this year but I did not buy any seeds yet. I had good success with seeded varieties last year so I am ready to try something new.

Bill - so true - I look at the herbs I planted every day but they are not really growing much. I may add a light.

I always grow a seedless watermelon because they're so good. The seed are expensive, germination rates aren't that good, and the seedlings are usually kinda sick looking compared to the other melons I grow, but they're still worth it to me. I like Solitare and Trillion. The flavor is so good and the texture is crisp, plus no or few seeds!

I found it Browny. It's actually a Ferry-Morse seed. It's called Ultra Cool (14-16lb). Go to homeharvestseed.com you'll find it, and at a great price.They also have good prices on a lot of seed. Looking through my notes I see that I did get the Gurney varity up from direct seeding last year also. Got hailed on in mid july so didn't have much for melons at all. Give that Ultra Cool a try it's one that will have almost zero for seeds.

Heat mat? Heck I would never spend the outrageous price they want for them. A simple heating pad does the trick if you want heat to germinate seeds.

I am just very careful to put the heating pad on the floor, place blocks of wood to support the seed tray to prevent direct contact.

I do find germination to be quicker that way.

I find that peppers especially appreciate a little extra heat when sprouting. I usually pre-sprout my pepper seeds in a damp coffee filter in a plastic bag. Set that on top of the fluorescent light for a week or so and voila sprouted pepper seeds. Then stick them in your pot and they'll be up in a couple of days. Anyway, that's just what works best for me. I usually do the same with eggplant and sometimes squash, as I start them later and the lights are already going. Once they're germinated and growing, there may be some advantage to moving your light contraption and plants into a cooler space if you have one (lower 60's or so) -- slows down vertical growth, promotes thicker stems. At least it does with tomatoes. Not necessary though, just a possibility.

it's rather well established that specific plant seeds germinate better within a specific temp range.

there are exceptions -

wks BLF Opt. Temp
........75-85...basil
........86......beans, green
........84......beans, lima
........86......beans, soy
........86......beets, very flat curve
5-7...77......broccoli
5-7...84......brussel sprouts
5-7...86......cabbage
........77-94...cabbbage, chinese, very flat curve
........77......carrots, flat
5-7...59-86...cauliflower, flat some advant @86
10-12.68......celery
........86......corn, sweet
3-4...86......cukes
6-8...86......eggplant
8-10..77......leeks
3-6...76......lettuce
........90......melons
3-4...85......muskmelon
........85......okra, per johnnys packet info
6-8...77-86...onion, flat curve
6-8...70......parsley
........77......peas
6-8...86......peppers
........84......radish
........86......spinach
3-4...90......squash, summer and winter
6-10..76......tomatoes
........77-96...turnips, flat
3-4...95......watermelon

Some seeds, those that need a warmer soil to germinate such as the tomatoes, do need some bottom heat. I have for years simply put those seed trays on top of the refrigerator which supplies ample bottom heat. I put the traysa in a sandwhich bag, seal it (after watering the medium and planting the seeds) and in about a week I take the now germinated seedlings out to the lights.
The heating pads can be difficult to control to provide the heat necessary and unless wrapped in something water proof can present a severe electric shock hazard.

I love all this discussion. I have done it all wrong and wound up with things to plant out in the garden. I have even used (gasp) potting soil.

These are the things that I have experienced:

Don't plant too early! Unless you have the space set up for it. And those 24 little pots you start with, will need much bigger pots and much more space quickly.

Root bound plants have no advantage to the plants you buy at a box store or even a greenhouse.

Sometimes you will get dampoff - ugh! Not a real biggy, replant.

I have found that many things do much better directly seeded into your garden and covered with WOW or other covering. Take notes, and try it both ways. Last summer, my tomatoes planted by seed, were fully caught up to the ones planted in the house by the time it came for harvest. I am only planting 1, well ok, maybe 3, no ONE early tomato.

Also, don't worry too much about the lights, sometimes I forgot and left them on all night, and sometimes I forgot to turn them on, they were for the most part pretty forgiving.

Good luck, mk

Wow, great info. Thanks everyone.

I may get out that heating pad after all. BTW most new heating pads seem to be waterproof since you can use them for moist heat. I never have but it is pretty well sealed in vinyl so I am not worried about shocking myself.

Just do be careful! Many human-meant heating pads can get damn hot. I certaily wouldn't want to place thin plastic items on top of them for any length of time.

I plan to try Mumsey's idea of placing the tray above the heating pad with some wood blocks or bricks. My heating pad also has a low setting which is pretty low.

Wow! What a lot of info to digest! My only concern is the seed starting medium- I don't want to spend a bunch of $ mixing something myself, and then having it not work. I also don't really want to transplant more than once- from the pot, to the garden. I have a bunch of yogurt containers that I saved, but if I can find a tray with cells big enough, I would rather use that than mix my own. I'll be doing no more than 30 indoors- but I was not aware that I needed to start watermelon indoors- maybe I should add that to my list- I thought it was best direct seeded like other melons.