So, what now?

The plants have paled somewhat to a yellowish green. They look all right, though they don't seem to be growing very quickly.

What would cause this? The plants in the ground are yellower than the couple still left in pots, but they are all yellowish.

Is it a nutrient deficiency? They are in peat pots which were then planted in small pots with compost, which are then planted in compost pockets in the ground.

Maybe that is the problem. They are planted in compost pockets because the organic matter that I laid down in the bed last Fall had not decomposed to a degree that I felt I could plant them directly into. Also, I had to dig some wood chips into the bed because I made the mistake of using wood chips as mulch on top of the lasagna, and I couldn't remove all of it, so I dug some of it in.

But, I wouldn't think they would have grown outside the compost pockets yet.

So, I don't know what it is. What are some possibilities?

For reference, I didn't have any trouble with tomatoes last year, and all I had was the farmer's market better boy and cherry tomato types. This year they are grown-from-seed, heirloom varieties straight from loamlump's stock. Why would I be having more trouble this year?

Thanks!!

Heather

Try digging in a bit of Epsom salts around the plants...about a teaspoon each.

Okay. What will the epsom salts do? Thanks!

The heirloomers are probably wondering, "Where the hell are we?!"
In truth, heirlooms are a little fussier than hybrids. Epsom salts add trace minerals and make leaves really green, but I would not use as much as Locke suggested, if they are less than 12" tall, you might pickle the roots. I would think a tomato plant that small would only need 1/2 tsp or less.
How deep did you plant them, Heather? You can bury them up to the first set of leaves and get a bigger root system that way. Are they outside? (forgive me, I'm losing my memory) But the most common reason for yellow leaves in the early stages is not enough light, or slow take up of nutrients.

They only have two sets of leaves each, and they are outside and in the ground. I did bury them up to the cotyledons (sp?). I would think that they are getting plenty of light--it is very sunny where they are. I did harden them off pretty carefully before moving them, and again, the plants that are in pots still are out in the same location, but not as yellow.

I'll try the epsom salts at 1/2 tspn and go from there.

Thanks for the help!!

Heather

You can actually bury them up to their first set of true leaves. Just snip the seedling leaves off with a finger nail and bury the plant. I've seen some old timers take a foot-tall seedling and bury all but the very tip-top of the plant! You've gotta have somewhat dry soil for that though, else you risk rotting the plant.

Is there anyother way to tx-plant tomatoes?
I always, always, always bury all the plant, except for the very top most set of leaves. They need that extra root zone come summer. I would think it even gets hot (& at least dryer), even in NC.
About the peet-pots. did you open them? Sometimes they aren't as easy for the roots to get thru as they are suposed to be. The plants can become root bound.

Ooohhhh... I didn't know I was supposed to open the peat pots. Would it be a bad idea to dig them up and open them now? And then plant them deeper? I do know that the roots were beginning to come out the sides of the peat pots already when I transplanted them into larger pots, so they're not completely trapped. Also, the coffee cups that are protecting them from the insects that were nibbling at them--will those cause root bind too, or will the roots just grow down through the open bottom? Obviously, I'll eventually remove the coffee cups altogether, but I'm just wondering.

One final question--will my precious heirloomers always be so delicate? I don't usually like to have to nurse a plant along--I like good, vigorous stuff (that's why most of my garden is full of plants that most people think of as invasive nuisances, lol--if all I grow is peppermint, clover, eleagnus, and daffodils, I have very little babying to do ).

However, I LOVE tomatoes, and I love the idea of the heirloomers, so I'm willing to work a little harder for them. But I do want to know if, once they are well established and big, they will be a little less fussy, and stop giving me heart attacks! LOL

Thanks!!

Heather

No, as you start saving seeds from your heirlooms, they will slowly adapt to your particular area and weather. Thats what makes them so desirable, their ability to adapt to each new area while staying mostly pure to form. You can dig up your tomatoes. To do it, dig up a ball of soil around the tomato. Brush away the soil till you see roots, if there are roots at the bottom of the ball, they've pierced the pots. If not then poke a few holes in them with a stick. Now, replant the tomato much deeper than it was before, tamp the soil down well and they will send out new roots.

Heather!! I am exhausted just reading about your tomatoes!!! :^O

Do rip the bottoms out of the peat pots before you plant them. Those pots are pretty tough for a while, and the delicate roots won't be penetrating them. It also encourages the roots to go downward.

Also, yellow leaves might mean the iron in your soil is not accessible, and you need a bit of acid, you can use coffee grounds around each plant, water them in. It will take a week or so, but they should green up.

Maybe, just maybe you are watching them too closely? Is this really yellow or just not as green as the others? Maybe these things will correct themselves as the weather warms up and the root systems get established. Making big changes every couple of days by adding things might be overkill. Trust the plant to do what it does, and that you have done the right thing as well.

I've had heirlooms be huge mounds of green and never produce a tomato. I've had them be slow and reluctant with several of the most delicious things I've ever tasted. I think trial and error as to what works in your environment is what works with tomatoes. Some heirlooms just flat out will not produce well in some areas.

When the stems of the tomatoes start pressing against the cups you can rip them off. Until then, they won't hurt anything.

The fussiest tomato I ever tried to grow was Brandywine, and it is one of the few that I'll never bother with again. While it is true that some heirlooms will just not adapt quickly enough to produce mature fruit/seed, I do beleive the ones I sent you were successful for others in your state. They should catch on nicely.
You can, however, offer them some back bacon sandwiches, Cannuck beer and talk to them with lots of 'eh?' in your monologue. Should make them feel better. (this is a joke and not real gardening advice).

LOLOL :^O

Actually, I probably will go talk to them later. Not a bad idea. But instead of an accent, maybe I'll just explain to them about the good Ole South and how they're gonna love it here. I'll sing them one of my favorite songs about "some things that we've figgered out that make livin' easier when yer livin' here in the South." I'm sure they will appreciate knowing how to turn tractor tires into planters and car tires into swings. Surely that will make them feel better.

And, I think it's probably good advice too, not to overkill. I probably AM watching them a bit too closely, although that's in part due to the trouble I had with them earlier wilting and dying. A couple of them started to do that again today, and I think it's just too hot for them. I may just have to water them twice a day until they get acclimated. The soil was still moist, but it is pretty warm out there today, especially by Canadian standards!

Thanks so much for all the hand-holding. I think maybe I'll start with the coffee grounds--that seems like a pretty mild solution, and easily implemented. I've also gone ahead and buried them all up to the first set of leaves. Do the grounds need to be grounds that have been used, or can I use fresh? The reason I ask is, we used to drink a lot of coffee until we discovered that the coffee was triggering my migraines (migraine-free since the very day I went caffeine-free, woo-hoo!), so I have a lot of nice, un-used coffee grounds. If it's preferable that they've been used, I can of course run a pot of coffee and then just pour the coffee out.

Thanks!! :x

Heather

If you think it's the hot temps causing your wilting problems, it's probably safer to put an old sheer curtain over them, or some light shade cloth, because too much water on those baby roots will also cause yellowing.

I did mean used grounds, because it is a bit strong if they are not used, or just put fewer of them, but when I worked in an office we always gave the potted plants leftover coffee once a week and they thrived.

You sound like you're getting a lot of sun. Try shading them at noon, at least until they're acclimated to their in-ground positions.

Any one or a combination of the advice given here probably will have a positive effect on the plants.

@#$!%@$# southerners getting their stuff in the ground before May... $!#$!@#$ X-(

Good news on the tomato front--they seem to be perking up. I think they appreciate the extra watering in the early afternoon. I may still try shading them, but it is so hot that I think there is little danger of molding, and I don't yet have a good way to shade them--I haven't put up supports yet (still looking for a free or cheap option, like an old child's swing set, but may have to break down and buy concrete remesh soon...).

I also added some worm compost that I happened to find (just mounds of it) in the woods yesterday--just a touch each--but that should add some nutrients, as well, right? I figured at any rate it couldn't hurt.

I also think they appreciated the tips on making livin' easy when yer livin' here in the South.

Thanks again for all the hand-holding.

Heather