I am sending in two soil samples in a couple days. One from all over and one from the bad area. I need advice on which add on tests to pay for. I hadn't realized they cost so much.
The basic test is $15; I can add cal/mag $6, nitrate $5, organic matter $4, iron/zinc/copper/mang $10.

I really would like to see all these things but it is pretty expensive and seems like it shouldn't cost so much. It would be $40 each plus shipping for a total of just under $90!
Any suggestions?

Take a look at A&L labs.
A&L Laboratories

You can get everything you listed plus recomendations and a graph for $33 per sample.
"S3C COMPLETE Analysis (S2N plus S3)"

There are cheaper options if you don't need to test for everything.

Who are you sending the samples to? The price at the Clemson extension office is $6.00 for pH, P, K, Ca, Mg, Zn, Mn, Cu, B, Na. I've sampled for organic matter and N (slight additional cost). Check for a local extension office in your area, could be a couple counties combined. To answer your question, I wouldn't worry about any of the extra tests based on your photos. If pH is out of whack I would think they would have to give you a recommendation based on Ca/Mg. Looks like Michael has a good source.

Dirt

PS. Wait an hour, I'm sure Kimm will have the definitive answer.

A basic soil test should include the soils pH and the ratio of Calcium to Magnesium, Phosphorus, Potash, and should be in the range of $10.00 to $20.00. If done by your sate universities USDA Cooperative Extension Service you should be able to drop off the sample at your county office and there would be no shipping involved, so here in Michigan I can get a soil test done for $13.00 per sample
Humus levels in the soil you can test easily using these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
and you get to know your soil on a more intimate basis.

I knew he wouldn't let me down. Still looking for my local "USDA" cooperative extension.

Dirt

Dirt, I think I'd trust Clemson before I trusted USDA, just because they concentrate on SC. UT extension does a good job for us--not sure of the cost now since it's been a few since I've had one done. Kimm's standard home tests take care of most things past Ph that really need to be dealt with, and whatever the problem is, if you put enough compost into it over a period of time you'll probably correct it.

It is the county extention of U of M office I am talking about. They don't take the samples, you have to send them. And that is what they charge!
I already know my ph; I want organic matter content and trace minerals really along with the n-p-k basic.
I could just test the bad area and not the good areas to save money.
extension test

You know, I think you have a point, in the last post. The reason that you are testing is that you want healthy plants and good production. I am assuming that is what you got out of the "good" area.

I think that I would just test the bad area, and I am assuming that area did not do ???? something as well as the good area.

If it ain't broke, don't worry about it. The organice mater test, shake up some soil in a lot of water, and let it settle, that should give you a very good idea of organic matter.

Mrs.K

If it were me considering the size of your operation I'd spend the money and then re-sample every couple of years. Some pricey Ag college/lab!

Dirt

I reread the paperwork and organic content is included; the other minerals are extra. I don't think I will do cal/mag since I have had no BER I must be ok with cal.
Maybe I'll just do the basic test after all.

I agree with Drit--since you're a business I'd do the test at least on the "bad" places, and that it's one pricey Ag college lab.

Dirt Pit, this link, http://www.clemson.edu/extension/county/index.html , will take you to the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service web site which will allow you to find out where your county office is located. Many people do not understand that many years ago each state was required, as they were admitted to the union, to establish an agricultural school and the federal government set aside some land in each state for that purpose hence the name "land grant college". Some years later the USDA established the concept of the Cooperative Extension Service that these "land grant colleges" were to offer and in addition each of the state colleges would share information about soils, pest control, disease control, growing plants, etc. and the results of research at the various USDA Research stations would be made available through these offices.
Now while some of the people working in these state university USDA Cooperative Extensions Service offices may be a bit misguided, they are there to help everyone. If we as organic gardeners do not utilize the services offered and push your county office to offer organic solutions to problems it will not happen. The 3 horticulturists that I know in this area practice organic methods at home as well as the small fruit specialist that serves this area, and many of the professors at MSU do also, but the official stance of the university is still not oriented toward organic practices although I have seen it move in that direction in the last 20 years.
The University of Minnesota may well charge commercial operations more than the backyard gardener but that is not a problem for commercial operations because that soil test is a cost of doing business and is tax deductible, unless one does not file as a business.

Amazing how much information can be given without speaking to the question isn't it??

As Kimm1 mentioned, if you're a business, wouldn't the cost of these soil tests be tax deductible as expenses?

quote:

Originally posted by Kimm1:
Dirt Pit, this link, http://www.clemson.edu/extension/county/index.html , will take you to the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service web site which will allow you to find out where your county office is located. Many people do not understand that many years ago each state was required, as they were admitted to the union, to establish an agricultural school and the federal government set aside some land in each state for that purpose hence the name "land grant college". Some years later the USDA established the concept of the Cooperative Extension Service that these "land grant colleges" were to offer and in addition each of the state colleges would share information about soils, pest control, disease control, growing plants, etc. and the results of research at the various USDA Research stations would be made available through these offices.
Now while some of the people working in these state university USDA Cooperative Extensions Service offices may be a bit misguided, they are there to help everyone. If we as organic gardeners do not utilize the services offered and push your county office to offer organic solutions to problems it will not happen. The 3 horticulturists that I know in this area practice organic methods at home as well as the small fruit specialist that serves this area, and many of the professors at MSU do also, but the official stance of the university is still not oriented toward organic practices although I have seen it move in that direction in the last 20 years.
The University of Minnesota may well charge commercial operations more than the backyard gardener but that is not a problem for commercial operations because that soil test is a cost of doing business and is tax deductible, unless one does not file as a business.

I volunteer at the local Clemson Extension office, have been for the past 7 years and fully understand the land grant concept. I'm also the organic/sustainability voice. The question should have been stated, "I'm trying to find documentation linking USDA with Clemson PSA/Cooperative Extension?" Sorry for the confusion.

Dirt