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Just received results from a single raised bed sample as part of my personal research. Excessively high phosphorous and calcium levels. Expressed my concerns to my county agent (who's never figured out any connection to USDA) about cause/source and detrimental effects. She called a professor at Clemson University (who also doesn't know of a connection to USDA) that is conduction research in soil fertility/compost/plant nutrition (and was conversant/proponrnet in/of organics). Talked for almost an hour on a range of subjects enforcing some knowledge I already had and teaching me some (butt load actually) of new info. It was an awesome experience.
Dirt Trust me! I'm from the government, I'm here to help! |
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What was the reason for the excess phosphorus? I have that too.
FYI, I'm not a baby. I am a lot older than I may look. |
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Several speculations. Maybe from my compost which contains huge amounts of horse manure. I've used Black Hen in several locations for supplemental nitrogen for heavy feeders which contains higher levels of phosphorous and also is stable in the soil so it only depletes by plant take up. Going to take a compost sample to check. Recommendations were to use shredded leaves for a source of browns instead of the wood chips mixed with horse manure. My compost greens are kitchen scraps and every other grass clippings from the lawn. Use existing compost but cut rate in half. Use nitrogen only fertilizer (blood meal, etc.) where needed prior to mulch (shredded leaves and/or pine bark soil conditioner) application. I also have high levels of calcium with a pH of 5.8. I'll use dolomitic lime. Neither nutrient poses a plant toxicity problem. What really impressed me was when he asked about my earthworm population which is non-existent most likely due to high temperature in raised beds which will be the subject of another post. I'm thinking of conduct a 2 compost analysis's on my soil (before and after) for my own interest.
Results (lbs/acre except where noted): pH - 5.8 P - 319 (excessive) K - 85 (medium) Ca - 2667 (excessive) Mg - 314 (sufficient) Zn - 49.8 (sufficient) Mn - 26 (sufficient) Cu - 1 (sufficient) B - 0.9 (sufficient) Na - 13 (sufficient) NO3 - 8ppm Organic matter - 6.1% Scale: Low - Medium - Sufficient - High - Excessive Just completed my final ever term as president of the Master Gardener Association (one of those dedicated to volunteering not the evil ones that know more than their neighbors and the lone organic voice in the wilderness). Having been responsible for continuing ed and still being on the executive board as past-president I'm going to set up some web conferences on related subjects and record them. I'll be glad to share if it's within copy right guidelines. The discussion was far more detailed than I presented here. My experiences with the Clemson profs and research folks (one of the benefits of elected position) has always been quite rewarding. Had I had the experience in my youth I probably would have pursued a degree in a related field of ag/hort. Hope some of this helps. Dirt Trust me! I'm from the government, I'm here to help! |
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The USDA Cooperative Extension Service was begun some time back by the USDA in cooperation with the land grant agricultural schools in each state to help promote agricultural research and provide a means to share that research. If someone is working in the county office of Clemson Universities USDA Cooperative Extension Service and does not know that I would be very suspect of any other information that person provided.
If that "county agent" really does not understand this the information in this link might help, http://www.csrees.usda.gov/qlinks/extension.html Why your soil contains high levels of any nutrient depends on what you have been adding to that soil. The sand I garden in was originally quite low in Phosphorus and Magnesium and today shows adequate to high levels and all that I have added to the soil over the years is compost and shredded leaves as a mulch. The sign of a good gardener is not a green thumb, it is brown knees. |
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There's a difference in USDA Cooperative Extension Service and "USDA cooperation with..." I followed the links in your reply and never found a reference to the USDA Clemson Cooperative Extension Service or Clemson USDA Cooperative Extension Service. From the USDA website:
South Carolina Clemson University * Clemson Cooperative Extension * Clemson University College of Agriculture, Forestry, and Life Sciences * Clemson University Experiment Station of Clemson From your home state: Michigan Michigan State University * College of Agriculture and Natural Resources * College of Natural Science * College of Veterinary Medicine * Michigan Agricultural Experiment Station * Michigan State University Extension I would be most pleased if you would provide a link to a USDA Cooperative Extension Service. As for the rest of your comments - you didn't disappoint me. In the future please don't let me bore you with any discussion beyond add compost. Dirt Trust me! I'm from the government, I'm here to help! |
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Since Clemson is "suspect" thought I'd check out Michigan with a link below. I see "Michigan Extension", "Michigan State University Extension (MSUE)" and the "Cooperative Extension System" created by the Smith-Lever Act of 1914. Having some problem locating the Michigan State USDA Cooperative Extension Service. Perhaps you could provide a link?
http://www.msue.msu.edu/portal...msue_portal_id=25643 Dirt Trust me! I'm from the government, I'm here to help! |
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I don't mean to hijack
FYI, I'm not a baby. I am a lot older than I may look. |
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I just checked you're sample results and wasn't really alarmed. I'm surprised you're sample included nitrogen (NO3) as a standard test since it changes so quickly. What was your actual phosphorous levels (hopefully lbs/acre)? If the scale is the same as Clemson I surely would not be alarmed. If it were my garden I'd go with the truckloads of compost and re-sample a couple months afterward. Also taking not of the different soil composition and climate. My micro-herd devours OM in short order. Couple years ago I tilled under easily 12" of un-shredded leaves (a huge mess and looming disaster) in early winter, no sign of them in early spring. Bottom line - how did your crops perform?
Dirt PS. You're not hijacking. Kimm1 and I have been going back and forth over USDA vs. Cooperative Extensions for more than a little while. I think he's missing my point! I'm really not expecting a reply. Trust me! I'm from the government, I'm here to help! |
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The sign outside my counties Michigan State UIniversity USDA Cooperative Extension Service office says just that. Many times people will talk about their state universities Extension Service without adding the USDA part but the extension service was established by the USDA as a cooperative research program to help farmers and gardeners all over the USA and today also has the 4H program as well as home economics people that work with innercity residence to aid them in learning about good nutrition and feeding their children properly.
The sign of a good gardener is not a green thumb, it is brown knees. |
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Mine doesn't include USDA as well as the Richmond and Columbia county offices across the river.Must be an oversight on the Michigan State website. Guess that settles it.
Dirt Trust me! I'm from the government, I'm here to help! |
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bump
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Rebel rouser! Dirt Trust me! I'm from the government, I'm here to help! |
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