If any plant is not producing as similar plants did in years past more then likely the problem is the soil. Look closely at that to see why. The problem may be soil pH, may be nutrient balance, may be any number of other things, but it has something to do with the soil. A good, reliable soil test would not be out of order and is something that should be done before adding anything, except compost and other organic matter, so imbalances are not created.

How's your weather? Cloudy and rainy, by any chance? If that's the case, then both of our tomato crops are failing for a lack of sun... It's been frickin' pouring all week here in NY! >_<

It doesn't rain here in the summer. Period. That's the Mediterranean climate, no rain from about April to about November.

A soil test is a good idea!

quote:

Originally posted by jenniferch.:
The temps have been fine, low to mid 80's during the day, low 60's at night. There is flower production but they either don't open or else fall off after opening. Today I fertilized for the second time. It may be too late now anyway.

It is definitely not too late, if that is any consolation; assuming you find out what is causing this, you can get a second crop, as I did last season, when they finally started flowering at the end of August! I got a small second crop, but you probably have a longer season than I have here.

Seems really strange, as the only thing I have had cause flowers to drop off them is intense heat. This year, despite the two heatwaves, it has not been as hot as last year, and the flowers have not stopped, even in mid-90s, probably due to cooler nights this year. Given your temps, this isn't the problem. You mention the water being somewhat salty; maybe there is something in the water in higher concentrations than previously? Seems it would affect other plants, too, but maybe tomatoes are just less resistant to it.

Dave

Try taking away some Nitrogen from your tomato
plants.
........
Spread a little lawn clippings to steal the N.
That is, around your tomato plant.
......
Monster Tomato and Pepper Plant Sale March 14-16,2008
======================================
My tomato experiments.
I've got more than 2 dozens fruit and more
flowers.

1 Saint Pierre (I) Mid Red Heirloom France. Large, Flavorful, excellent producer even in poor soil. Wonderful flavor.
"I'm not satified with this plant"

2 Tomande VFFNT (I) Italy Mid Red Hybrid Large semi-flatten fruit. Excellent flavor and great plant for hot weather.
"Healthy plant with tomatoes. This is OK."

3 Moon's Super Bush Early Red Heirloom Solid rich, red tomatoes that are big and beefy.
Excellent slicer.
"Healthy plant with tomatoes. This is OK."

4 Sunmaster VFFA (D) Mid Red Hybrid Heat tolerant plants with good sugar, acid balance. 7 to 8 oz fruit is firm, smooth.
"Healthy plant but no fruit, no flowers"

5 Arkansas Traveler (I) Late Red Heirloom Southern heirloom that produces 6 to 8 ounce fruits. Good for hot weather.
"I'm not satisfied with this one"

6 Viva Italia VFFNA (D) Mid Red Hybrid Italian pear shaped fruit w/ natural sugar flavor. Sets well in heat. Disease resistant.
"Healthy plant with tomatoes. This is OK."

7 Japanese Black Trifele Mid Black Heirloom Excellent flavor from a very rare tomato. Smooth fruit with few defects. Superior.
"Healthy plant with tomatoes. This is OK."

"Next Year"
- Sun Chaser VFFA (D) Mid Red Hybrid Heat tolerant variety able to set fruit in tough conditions. Good flavor, good quality.
--------------------------------------
My "Bush Beefsteak" is in it's third consecutive year "cold weather/perennial" tomato ??
I'm trying to root this tomato cutting in water. This tomato is a "hybrid" ---not a "open polinated or heirloom"---. The seeds from this plant is questionable/not true to it's parent.
I'm satisfied with this one.
===============
My brother-in laws plants "Beefsteak type"
good healthy plaants, doing OK in Pasadena.
======================
Cousin Beefsteak "2 plants" in Santa Monica.
1 plant doing very good.
1 plant poorly.
=====================
Backyard gardeners.

quote:

the organic fertilizer I buy has the ingredients mentioned. The area got about 4" of homemade compost before planting and another heavy dose about 2 weeks ago.

My goodness, I do believe you have way overdone the fertilizer thing! Those things are "Hot" in nitrogen. One inch of good compost is usually ample on an area. Too much nitrogen retards growth, and can even kill the plants.

What happens when you get too many nutrients in the soil, the water in the soil becomes a denser solution than the water in the plant cells and the water then migrates from the plant to the soil and your plant is water stressed. This can cause your blossoms to drop.
Plants may have a light green color and wilt. In a worst case they will just die from dehydration even if the soil is moist.

If this is the case you may get some relief by flooding the area well.

A soil test is in order.

Another interesting factor. There's a volunteer tomato (I think it's a Black Zebra from several years ago) growing in an area where no vegetable has grown before. There were mature brugmansias and some succulents which I removed. Minimal fertilizer, no compost, just some homemade leaf mould. And the same thing is happening.

Jennifer, here's an article that says that not enough calcium can cause already-formed tomatoes to drop. Milk can help with this, in compost tea.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Growing-Vegetables-740/Tomatoes-Fruit-Dropping.htm

Any already formed tomatoes stayed. Another thing to remember is that I used the same amount of organic fertilizer that I have in the past. Nothing different. This is a mild product by Whitney Farms, NPK numbers are 4-5-3. (Looking it up, I just found out that Scotts now owns Whitney Farms! But the products seem to be the same as they always were.)

I want to thank all of you for continuing to think about this situation!

Hmmmm.................

It is possible the temperature and humidity have a bearing too. Give it some time I guess and see if things change.

Tomatoes can be picky for sure. Sometimes they bloom and bloom but never set any fruit. Then bingo, one day they set fruit.

I read what you wrote incorrectly,

"But after a short period of setting fruit, now all the flowers are dropping off."

I misread that and I thought the small tomatoes were dropping off.

It's not too late. In the central valley they plant the last crop of tomatoes August 1, and I'm picking tomatoes well into November, so hang on and see if the changes in these upcoming months don't make a difference.

I am interested in what happens, so let us know.